Method and means for producing knitted articles



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METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 1937 12Sheets-Sheet 2 [N VE N TORI Sept. 15,1942. G, GA I H 2,295,782

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 1957 12Sheets-Sheet 3.

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' I METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 1937l2 Sheets-Sheei 4 7 E w 1 211; t 5 1 6 07 Z5; 1 110 4 Z ATTORN M METH ODAND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 1957 12Sheets-Sheet 5 .L 'L FlE-JEI- 12.

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METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 1957 12Sheets-Shet s Ems-ELL- Fmnas- E1555- F.LE.E7;

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METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 1937 12Sheets-Sheet 9 $16 uv'r Elvz ol zk favfias no BY i ' ATTORNEY;

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METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 1957 12Shets-Sheet 1o Illlll IN V EN TOR.

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METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING KNITTED ARTICLES Filed Oct. 8, 193'? l2Sheets-Sheet 12 INVENTOR.

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Patented Sept. 15, 1942 Gustav emu.

Textil Machine e poratlon of Pennsyl METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCINGrmrrran ARTICLES Wyomissing, 2a., as'signor to Works. Wyomissing, Pa", acor- Application mma, 1931', Serial rim 167,958 3 Claims. (01. 66-82) Myinvention relates to a method of, and means for, shaping a knittedfabric, and particularly to such method and means as applied to theproduction of a half heel pocket portion, and the like, of a fullfashioned stocking blank, or other article.

Heretofore, it has been'usual, in forming a knitted fabric portion, suchas a portion at each side of a full fashioned stocking blankconstituting half of the cup-like heel pocket of the completed stocking,to knit an area. or areas,

- such as the welt, leg and portions of the heel, on

one machine, such as a "legger, and the remainder on a machine, such asa footer." The latter method has well known disadvantages, such ascausing loss of time, excess labor, and bad matching between the partsof the fabri knitted on the respective machines.

- Efforts to overcome these disadvantages, and to produce the entirefabric or blank on a single machine, have encountered considerabledifllculty and expense, with the result that further expedients havebeen attempted.

One of the latter resides in knitting all of a full fashioned stockingblank, except the heel pocket portion, on one machine, separatelyknitting half heel pocket elements, on another machine, topping the heelpocket elements in position on the blank, and stitching the toppedelements in position. The latter method has disadvantages, such asrequiring the handling of too many parts, the production and removal oflarge ravel areas, the use of excess yarn, the performance of too manyoperations, and the production of a less satisfactory fabric.

Another of the above-mentioned expedients resides also in knitting anentire full fashioned stocking blank, except the heel pocket element, onone machine, knitting the pocket in one piece on a separate machine, andtopping. and sewing the heel pocket in position. This form requiresstoring and transporting the separate heel pockets, topping them aboutall of the edges, and the production and removal of, large ravel areas.

It is an aim of thlsinvention, in certain aspects, to overcome certainof the above-mentioned disadvantages, by providing a method considerablysimpler than the operation of a legger machine and a footer machine,rendering it. practical and desirable to provide on one machine all ofthe blank except the heel pocket elements, and by knitting the latter tothe blank, instead of topping and stitching either the elements or asingle-piece pocket in place, economizing in the operation, providing abetter prod-' n ,and other advantages.

not, and rendering the invention a general im-' provement in its field.

Another object of the invention is to so employ long and short beardloop-manipulating implements, and to so operate them in cooperation andcombination with the fashioning and loop transferring means as to obtainthe above mentioned Another object of the invention is to provide novelmeans for simultaneously operating a plurality of loop-manipulatingneedle, or needlelike, implements whereby certain loops thereon are castoff, while others remain on or are prevented from being cast off, theimplements.

Another object of the invention is to provide a machine, for forming aknitted fabric, comprising a presser edge, and a loop manipulatingmechanism including a bearded implement, whereby, upon predeterminedoperation of the mechanism, the heard is partially closed by the edge,and openedto prevent .press off of a loop, or the machine is providedwith means for *selectively receiving such implement or an implementhaving a beard to be. closed by the edge to press of! a loop, or withimplements of both types for the operations thereof aforesaid.

Another object is to provide a loop-manipulating implement, like aneedle of the beard type, in which the beard is shorter than the beardof a standard needle, and the implement has other novel individualcharacteristics, function and result, or novel character in combinationwith a machine and/or other elements.

Another object is to avoid press off of a loop from an implement of thebearded needle type, as by providing a tapered surface on the beard sideof. the shank of greater extent toward the butt and of the implementthan a corresponding tapered surface of astandard needle .of the sametype, whereby to obtain advantages of the longer taperedsurface eitherin its individual effect or in its effect operating in combination witha machine and/or other elements.

Another object is to provide a novel operating feature in a knittingmachine whereby needlelike implements operating simultaneously throughlike cycles are affected diiferently and produce different results.

Another object of the invention is to produce an improved product of theabove indicated character.

Another object of the invention is ,to provide novel selvage loopforming and connecting and to adapt the same for ready applicawherebythe short beards arenot closed bythe presser edge at the time the longbeard needles I are casting off loops.

struction, economical to manufacture, and eii'ective in its operation. 4

By the invention, a fabric, such as afull fashioned stocking blank, isknitted and formed to have, at each side in the heel region, a pluralityof .course portions, such as course portions-of loose loops; theseportions being formed to; lie substantially in coursewise alignment fortop- 7 ping onto needle-like implements of a knitting machine, as byfirst knitting them in walewise register, either separately or joined bya severing courseor courses, and folding the blank to place them in suchalignment. The invention, in addition to its novel character inconnection with the production of full fashioned hosiery, contemplatesits application to other fabrics, as in the manufacture of underwear,swimming suits and the like, where simultaneous operations at oppositesides of a blank, as above mentioned may be efiected) or, since theseoperations are duplicates, one operationmay be effected in accordancewith certain phases and contemplation of the invention, without theaccompanying operation being performed.

The aligned course portions are topped onto adjacent groups ofneedle-like implements, as of the beard type, in which one group haslong beards and another has short beards, and knitting is resumed fromthe one course portion, such as from the loops on the long beardneedles, while Novel mechanism, for operation in accordance with themethod, comprises, in one example, groups of needle-like implements, asof the bearded type, in which one group has long beards and another hasshort beards, fashioning means,

such as narrowing points associated with one of 10 the needle groups, asof the long beards, and loop transfer means, such as transfer pointsassociated with another of the implement groups, as of .the shortbeards. Also, a slide cam and follower mechanism are provided to shiftthe transfer points, and other features are present, as will hereinafterappear.

With the above-mentioned, and other, objects in view, which will becomeapparent from the following detailed description of the illustrativeembodiment of the invention shown in the accompanying drawings, myinvention resides in the novel elements, features of construction andarrangement of parts in cooperative relationship as hereinafter moreparticularly pointed, out in the claims. V

In the drawings: Figure l is a view in outline, and showingmajorfeatures of a full fashioned stocking produced according to theinvention, the stocking,

the implement group of the other course portion,

or of the loops on the implements having the short beards, receives noyarn. This second knitting operation is effected for a given number ofcourse portions, during which narrowing is also effected in selectedcourses, and loops are successively transferred from the other courseportion,

.or from the short beard implements, to loops of the additionally knitpart or insert, as at the inside selvage edge where the part is a heeltab of a full fashioned stocking; the transferred loops being-interknitto selected loops of the additionally knit part and, in one form of theinvention, being of smaller number than the given number of courseportions substantially uniformly distributed throughout the length ofthe part. Where the resultant fabric is to be tubular, and two of theaforesaid additionally knit, parts are provided at opposite sides of ablank, as in a full fashioned stocking, and if necessary or desiredalso, where only one such part is produced, a row of loose loops and arave] area are provided at the end of the knitting. As in the stocking,the loose loops at the respective blank sides are looped and stitched toeach other, after which a short back seam is effected, as from the toeloopingsto the thus looped loose loops, and a longer back seam providedfrom the latter along a portion of the heel pocket and along the leg andwelt to the top of the stocking. During the above described operations,the loops to be transferred are prevented from being cast off the shortbeard implements, as by having beards open at times when the implementswould otherwise cast off the loops, this result being obtained, in theexample given, by having the beards shorter than the beards of theadjacent group'of needles on which knitting is being effected, andoperating all of the implements through usual actions as shown, being infiat folded form;

Fig. 2 is an outline view of a blank on a slightly reduced scale,complete except for the heel tabs, as produced on a single machine, andfrom which, after the tabs are provided in accordance with theinvention, the stocking of Fig. l is produced; Fig. 3 is a view similarto Fig. 2, showing the blank of Fig.2, plus the. heel tabs, as abovementioned, from which the stocking of Fig. l is directly produced; I

Fig. 4 is a. view, in front elevation, parts being omitted, of a machineincluding the invention;

Fig. ,5 is a cross sectional view, parts showing in section, inelevation and in dot-and-dash lines, of the machine structure of Fig. 4,taken substantially along the line 5-5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail view, taken substantially along the line6-6 of Fig. 5, of a transfer point shifting mechanism of the invention,with the parts positioned as at one stage of operation;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, of the'parts thereof positioned asat another stage of operation;

Fig. 8 is an enlarged detail front elevational view of portions of themachine as seen toward the upper right hand side of Fig. 4, or as viewedin the direction of the arrow C of Fig. 5, parts being responding to thestep of Fig. 7;

Fig. 11 is a detail sectional view, taken substantially along the line iili of Fig. 8, of the mechanism of Fig. 6, as positioned therein;

Fig. 12 is a view, partially in section and partial- Y ly in elevation,taken substantially along the line i2i'2 ofiFig. 8;

Fig. 13 is an end elevational view, taken from assures the left of Fig.4, of parts of the machine structure thereof; 1

Fig. 14 is a sectional viewtaken substantially along the line 14-" ofFig. 4;

Fig. 15 is a detail perspective view of portions of pattern controlmechanism shown at the lower right-hand portion of Fig. 14;

Fig. 16 is a diagrammatic view of a portion of the blank of Fig. 2positioned as it comes on the machine on which it is formed,.but withcertain course portions severed. as will be hereinafter set forth; I

Fig. 1'! is a view similar to Fig. 16 of the blank portion of Fig. 2, asfolded and conditioned for topping onto the machine of the invention;

Fig. 18 is a view similar to Fig. 1'! indicating preliminary progress inknitting or adding heel tab fabric areas to the fabric of Fig. 1'1, andtransferring loops from adjacent sole-areas to the inside selvages ofthe tabs;

Fig. 19 is a view similar to Fig. 18 showing further progress in theproduction of the fabrlc'or blank to positions intermediate the ends ofthe heel tabs; V

Fig. 20 similarly indicates the completion of the tabs, with ravelcourses yet to be added;

Fig. 21 indicates the blank of Fig. 20, after the addition of the ravelcourses;

Fig. 22 is a, magnified loop diagram of a portion of the fabric enclosedby a 'dot-and-dash rectangle A of Fig. 17, as conditioned at one stageof production;

Fig. 23 is a similar diagram of the fabric portion of Fig. 22, asconditioned at another stage of production;

Fig. 24 is a view, in side elevation, of a standard full fashionedknitting machine needle, drawn to approximately twice its actual size;

Fig. 25 is a view similar to Fig. 24, and to the same scale, of a shortbeard needle-like implement of the invention; I

Fig. 26 is a greatly magnified view. partially in side elevation andpartially in vertical plane section, of the upper portion of thestandard needle of Fig. 24;

Fig. 27 is a view similar to, and to the same scale as, Fig. 26 of theimplement of Fig. 25, showing the horizontally opposite relation ofparts to parts of the standard needle in service;

Fig. 28 is a view showing the position of one of the standard, or longbeard, needles relative to adjacent knitting elements near the beginningof a downward stroke of the needle;

Fig. 29 is a similar view of one of the short beard implements at thecorresponding stage of operation Fig. 30 shows the parts of Fig. 28 at-asubsequent stage of operation at which the needle beard is closed by apresser edge and about to enter a yarn loop to cast the latter 011;

Fig. 31 is a view of the parts of Fig. 29, as positioned when the partsof Fig. 30 are located as shown;

Fig. 32 is a view of the parts of Figs. 28 and 30, after the tip of thelong beard has been caught under the loop to be cast off and has movedaway from the presser edge;

Fig. 33 is a view of the parts of Figs. 29 and 31, as positioned whenthe parts of Fig. 32 are as shown;

Fig. 34 is a view of the parts of Figs. 28, 30 and 32, after furtherdeparture of the heard from the presser edge, and further descent of theneedle toward casting off position;

Fig. 35 is a view of the parts of Figs. 29, 31 and fer points, otheryarn loop-manipulating implements, and loops, showing successive stepsof operation in the production of the fabric; and

' Fig. 43 is a greatly magnifled'fabric and loop diagram of areaswith'which the invention is immediately concerned.

. In the drawings and *description, only those parts necessary to acomplete understanding of the invention have been set forth; further'information as to the construction and operation of other elements notherein specifically pointed out, but which are usual and well known,being available in the pamphlet entitled Full Fashioned KnittingMachines, copyright 1920, and in the "Reading Full Fashioned KnittingMachine Catalogues, copyright 1929- and 1935, and

published by the Textile Machine Works, Reading. Pennsylvania, and in apamphlet entitled "Knitting Machine Lectures! published in 1935 by theWyomissing Polytechnic Institute, Wyomissing', Pennsylvania. v

' Referring to Fig. 1, one exemplary application of the method of theinvention is in connection with a full fashioned stocking comprising afolded double layer welt portion W, a leg portion M, a reinforced upperheel area H, a reinforced sole area R, a diamond point toe portion '1,and .a heel pocket P.

In the production of the stocking of Fig. 1, the b1ank of Fig. 2 isfirst produced on a single machine, and comprises the welt portion W,the

leg portion M narrowed at a knee area i2 and at a lower leg area H, theupper reinforced heel areas If and'the reinforced sole areas R atopposite sides of the blank, the diamond point toe portion T, a loosecourse l5 and a ravel area It.

Between the areas H and R, at each side of the blank are formed loosecourse portions I1 and I8 in walewise register, between which a severingcourse area I9 is formed. The course portions l8 may have a greaternumber of loops than the portions II. By severing the courses i9, whichis indicated as having been done in Fig. 16, to separate the areasH andR, by folding the blank about an instep course or line J and againfolding the blank about a walewise line at each side of the blank, asindicated in Fig. 17, and which will hereinafter be more fullyexplained,

the courses 18 are removed from the initial wa1ea given number of courseportions knitted from the course portions l'|. The loops of the loosecourse portions 18, which, in the example given, are fewer in numberthan the course portions of the tabs, are transferred to, and interknitwith,

selected loops of the inside selvage edges of the I tabs, distributedsubstantially throughout the length of the latter, although they mightbe of the same number transferred to each innerr 3 33, as positionedwhen the parts of Fig. 34 are V tions of the narrowings. As indicated inFig. 3', short loose courses 22 and have further courses after the lasttransferred loops of the courses I8. "Also, thetabs E, in the examplegiven, are narrowed in selected courses."

fewer than the total number of courses in the tabs, disposed inpredetermined'positions along the tabs, although here also, considerablechoice may be exercised in the numbenkind and posi-= ravel areas 23 areformed at the ends of the tabs for looping and stitching the courses 22to each i other, as shown in Fig. 1, in a series of loopings 24extending along the line of the usual hack scam I or a short iistance,indicated by a bracket, from the upper end of the reinforced sole area Rfor a short distance along the pocket. A short back seam 21 is formedbetween the selvages of the heel area B from the usual loopings of thetoe portion T to the lower end of the heel pocket P,

coincident with the lower end of the loopings 24, and a long back seam28'is formed from the upper end of the loopings 24 to the top of thestocking; the long seam 28 thereby being formed for a'short'distance 29betweenthe outside selvage edges of the heel pocket halves.

Referring to Figs. 4, 5, 8, 13 and 14, one ex- ?ample of; a machine, orselvage loop forming and connecting means, for practicing the method ofth invention may be a modified multi-section I "footer" machine,comprising usual end and center frames 32 and 33, respectively,supporting a front rail 34, a back rail 31, a front bed 38, and a centerbed 39, to constitute a framework or base on which the operating partsof the machine are supported.

, A cam shaft 62, supported in hearings in the frames 32 and 33, carriesa needle presser cam 43,-a needle bar cam 14, a narrowing head actuatingcam M at each end of the machine, a narrowing lift cam 48, a pattern cam59, shogging cams 52, and a face cam 53 for preventing operation of thenarrowing mechanism.

The needle presser cam 53 operates a follower 54 on a rocker arm 51, anda needle bar fork 58 to impart the usual horizontal movement to a needlebar 59, and a follower 62 on a cam lever 53 is operated by the needlebar cam 44 to turn a needle bar lifting shaft to which transmits thismotion through a needle bar lifting arm 37, a pivot pin 68, and abracket 69, to the needle bar 59, thereby giving to the latter its usuallifting movement. Needles L, and other needle-like yam loop-manipulatingimplements S, to be hereinafter more particularly pointed out, are heldt the bar 59 by clamps i3.

The shogging earns 52 are operated in usual manner to shift the camshaft 42 longitudinally, or axialiy, by longitudinal movement of a stubshaft 76 at right angles to the cam shaft, whereby a cam follower rollerW, on the stub shaft between the cams 52, in one position of the stubshaft, causes the cams 52 to shift the cam shaft 42 in-one direction,and in another position of the stub shaft, causes the cams 52 to shiftthe cam shaft 42 in the'opposite direction. In one position of the camshaft, the needle presser cam 63 and the needle bar cam as are in activerelation in the other'position of the cam shaft, the needle presser cam43 and the needle bar cam. are

in inactive relation to the followers 56 and 52, .re- 1 Q spectively,whereby no knitting takes place while each narrowing head actuating. camis in actlve relation to its follower 18 to produ e. 3 rowing Eachnarrowing head actuating Jeani follower 78 is mounted by a pin 19 on alever 88 that arms at and as; A spring E5, connected between a hookportion 8! of the lever 80 and a stationary part of the machine frame,biases the lift lever downwardly against an adjustable stop screw as ina bracket 86 on the machine frame. The arm 3'5 carries a pawl (notshown)' for operating a ratchet wheel that is disposed-behind a lockingwheel 92 (Fig. 13), and a pawl 93 for operating a ratchet wheel 94. Theratchet wheels are fixed to a, yarn carrier or end stop spindle 97, withthe locking wheel 92 fixed th'erebetween for cooperation with aspring-biased detent 98. The arm 88 carries a pawl Elli for operating aratchet wheel N2 that is disposed behind a locking wheel 99 (Figs. 4 and13) and a pawl I03 for back racking a, ratchet wheel its. The ratchetwheels it)? and 808 are fixed to a narrowing spindle Hi5, with thelocking wheel 99 fixed therebetween for cooperation with a spring-biaseddetent E08. The pawls 93 and Ni are connected by a link M9. The spindle495 includes portions its and it? having screw threads reverse to eachother. This mechanism is of usual construction for variably movingnarrowing combs H2 and i it of each section toward and away. from eachother to oberate the points N thereof, and to vary the travel of carrierrods 5, 6, i and 8, each supporting a yarn carrier or guide finger Y(Fig. 5) in a usual manner. The bars 5-.-8 are mounted in brackets, likethe bracket N0 of Fig. 5, secured to the center bed 39, and usual endstops i'il (Fig. 4) are provided for the bars at each, end of themachine.

A sinker head and knockover bit assembly D (Fig. 5) is of usualconstruction comprising sinkers HE, dividers H5, knockover bits H6 (Figs15) comprises a bracket 52?, mounted on the front rail 36, having abearing portion 528 for the stub shaft it which is biased toward theshogging cams 52 by a spring E29 connected at one end to the bearingportion 428 and at the other end to a member it! on the stub shaft heldagainst such bias by a lever E32. The member 53! carries a roller 933which is engaged by one of .the cams 52 to move the stub shaft againstthe action of the spring 829 to position in which it is held by thelever E32, the latter being actuated by a button on a pattern chainISA-whereby the cam shaft d2 is shogged as above mentioned. A hand leveri3! is associated with the mechanism B in a usual manner whereby thechain 834 may be adjusted along its path of movement by oscillating thelever I 3'! about the axis of a shaft I39 on which the lever and thedrum are mounted. The drive means for the chain comprises a cam I40(Fig-14) on the cam shaft 42, a follower I42 for the cam I40, and alever I43 carrying, at one end, the follower I42 and pivoted by a pinI44 to a portion of the bracket I21. The other end of the lever I43operates against the action of a spring I41 to actuate a pawl whichactuates a ratchet wheel m fixed to the drum I38.

The narrowing lift cam 48 has associated therewith a circular cam I52and a follower I53 which, when the cam shaft 42 is shogged rides oneither the cam 48 to effect the narrowing lift action, or on the cam I52to avoid the narrowing lift action during ordinary knitting. This liftaction is transmitted by the follower I53, through a pivot pin I54 and anarrowing lift cam lever I51, to a vertical narrowing lift lever I58,that is pivoted to the lever I51 by a pin I59; the lever I51 beingpivotally mounted, on the machine frame by a pin I82.

The vertical lever I58 is pivotally connected at its upper end to afront narrowing shaft i153 extending along the machine and carried byguide arms I54 (Figs. 4, 5 and 13) that are pivotally mounted on a backnarrowing shaft 598 journaled in bearing bracket I59 on the machineframe. Narrowing rod rackets I12, fixed to the front narrowing shaftI53, support narrowingrods m and m, and transfer rods in and m,

which are held in position on the brackets I12 by flat plate covers I19;the narrowing combs I I2 and N3 of each knitting section being mountedon the narrowing rods I13 and I14, respectively. Transfer combs I82 andI83, having transfer points F, are carried by the transfer rods I11 andI18, respectively. As viewed in Fig. 4, a spring I84, extending betweenone of the brackets I12 and the transfer rod I18, biases the latter tothe left. to a position against a slide cam to be hereinafter set forthand a spring I81, extending between another of the brackets I12 and thetransfer rod I11, biases the latter to the right against the slide cam.Also, a spring I88, connected betweenthe narrowing rod I14 and anarrowing nut I89 on the portion I01 of the spindle I05, biases the rodI14 to the right, to a position at which an adjustable contact screw I90on the rod engages the nut I89, and a spring I92, connected between thenarrowing rod I13 and a narrowing nut I93 on the portion I05 of thespindle I05, biases the rod I13 to the left, to a position at which acontact screw I 9I on the rod I13 engages the nut I93; this structurebeing duplicated at the other end of the machine.

As thus set up, the transfer points F cooperate with groups of theneedles or loop-manipulating implements S having short beards I94, andthe narrowing points N cooperate with groups of the needles L havingbeards I95 of standard length which, since they are longer than thebeards I94, will be referred to as long beards. All of the needles areheld to the bar 59 by the clamps 13, as above set forth; I

Shifting, or transferring, movement of the combs I82 and I83 is effectedby a slide bar cam device K which, as better shown in Figs. 6 to 12,inclusive. is mounted in a bracket I98. similar to one of the bracketsI59, on the front narrowing shaft I53. Instead of the flat plate coverI19v of the bracket I59, the bracket I98 has a member I99. ofrectangular channel section, the bottom all 202 of which takes the placeof the flat plate cover I19, and the bottom and-sides of' whichconstitute guides for a slide cam bar 203 of rectangular cross see tion,longitudinally slidably fitting the channel of the member I99. The cambar 203is held in place laterally by a cover 204 which is removed frompositionin Figs. 6 and 7, but is in place in Figs. 8 to 12, inclusive,and has edge cutouts 201, in register with side cut-outs 208 of themember I88. to accommodate the heads 209' of screws 2 and 2I2, on thetransfer bars I11 and I18, respectively, and acting as followers for thecam bar 203. The screws 2 and 2I2 are biased toward each other againstthe cam bar 203 by the springs I81 and I84, respectively, connected fromthe transfer bars I11 and I18 to certain of the brackets I12 on thefront narrowing shaft I53, as hereinabove set forth. The

cam bar 203 has sides slidably engaging the sides of the member I99constituting high points of the cam surfaces of the bar, and siderecesses 2I3 constituting low points of the cam surfaces of the bar,and. in an upper portion protruding from the top of the member I99, hasa pin 214 projecting laterally from one side thereof.

The screw 2 is mounted in an arm 2" of a member '2I8 secured to thetransfer bar I11,

and, with the latter, forms a slot 219 (Fig. 12)

through which one of the narrowing combs II3 extends. Similarly, thescrew 2I2 is mounted in an arm 222 of a member 223 secured to thetransfer bar I18, but the corresponding slot 224 is not utilized as inthe case of the member 12l8, because the narrowing comb 2 adjacentthereto is disposed entirely below the slot; this feature resulting fromthe fact that it isof manufacturing advantage to make the members 2I8and 223 duplicates, and renders them interchangeable. J l

The pin 2 is laterally slidably and pivotally disposed between the armsof a fork lever 221 that is fixed to the front narrowing shaft I53. Thelever 221 has another arm 228 pivotally connected by apin 229 to one endof a link 232 of substantially C-shape, the other end of which issimilarly connected by a pin233 (Fig. 5) to a bearing bracket or lever234 on the back narrowing shaft I58. A link rod 231 is connected at oneend by a pivot pin 238 to the bracket lever 234 and, at the other end,by a pivot pin 239, to one end of a lever 242. 'The latter is pivotallymounted at an intermediate position, by a pin 243, on a bracket 244 onthe back rail 31, and rotatably carries, at its other end on a shaft241, a follower roller 248. forcooperation with the cam"49, and acircular cam 249 associated therewith. The lever 242 is biasedcounterclockwise, as viewed in Fig. 5. by a spring 252' extendingbetween a hook portion 253 on the lever and a bracket 254 on the backrail 31; this arrangement tending to hold the follower 248 against oneof the cams 49 and 249, depending upon which of the latter is oppositethe follower as determined by the axial position of the cam shaft 42.point of substantially the radius of the circular cam 249 whereby thecams may shift relative to the follower 248, and the cam 49 has a highpoint whereby, at each revolution of the cam shaft, when the roller 248is on the cam 49, the

lever 242 is oscillated clockwise about its pivot This movement rocksthe bracket lever 234 clockwise about the back narrowin shaft I58 and,through the C-sha'ped link 232,

causes the fork lever, by engagement with the pin 2I4, to move thesliding cam bar 203 downwardly, as viewed in Fig. '1. Before thisdownward movement, the cam bar 203 isin the upper The cam 49 has a lowFigs. 6, 8, 9, 11, and 12, to the position of Figs.

'1 and 10, in which the screws 2" and 2I2 are on the high points of thecam bar, and the transfer combs have each been moved a distance of oneneedle, causing the combs to be moved away from each other by a distanceof two needles.

Dipping movement of-the transfer points F, and of the narrowing pointsN, is effected when one of a selection of buttons on the pattern chainI34 causes operation of the lever I32 to release the stub shaft 16,whereby the roller 11 is moved, to position between the shogging cams52, to shift the cam shaft 42. This shifting moves the needle presser.cam 43 and the needle bar cam 44 away from the followers 58 and 62,respectively, to temporarily prevent the formation of new loops. Theshifting action also moves the circular cam I52 away from the followerI53, and the narrowing cam 48 into engagement with the follower I53, tocause the dipping movement of the front narrowing shaft I63 and theparts mounted thereon. During this action, the narrowing cam 41, eventhough shifted, does not engage the narrowing cam follower 18, which, ashereinafter described, must also be shifted to engage the cam 41, sothat the shifting or longitudinal narrowing movement of the narrowingpoints N may occur.

Thus, as so far described, the dipping movement is effected as above setforth, the transfer action of the points F is effected through theintermediary of the slide cam 283, the fork lever 221, the link 232, thebracket lever 234, the link rod 231, the lever 242; the follower 248,and the cam 49, and no narrowing occurs. The narrowing points dip, butthey do not shift any loops.

In the production of the fabric in the example given, to be further setforth, there is a certain numerical relation between the number ofcourses knitted, the number of loops transferred and the number ofnarrowings effected;

v the number of courses knitted being the g eatest,

and on the order of ninety, the number of loops to be transferred beingnext, and on the order of sixty, and the number of narrowings to beeffected being the smallest, and on the order of ten; the sixtytransfers being substantially uniformly distributed walewise of theninety courses.

Although narrowing could be elfected when not transferring, in view .ofthe above relations, the machine has been devised to effect each of theten narrowings when one of the sixty transfers is taking place along theninety courses.

It having been shown above how a transfer takes place without anarrowing, in order to transfer and narrow at the same time, thereby incertain instances taking advantage of one dipping action to effect bothresults, a mechanism is provided, as shown in Figs. 4, l4 and 15. Thismechanism comprises a projection 251 on the lever I32 for operation by alever 258 which is actuated by a button on the pattern chain I34.

' Pivotally mounted on a shaft 262, with the lever of the machine frame.

arm 261 which controls the descent ofa follower roller 266 intooperative engagement with the face cam 53 mounted on .the cam shaft 42.When a button on the chain I34 raises the lever 258, the latter engagesthe projection 251 to raise the lever I32, without operating the lever263. This action releases the stub shaft 16 for effecting a transfer,without narrowing. When a button on the chain 134 engages the lever 263,to shift the rod 264, the lever 263 also raises the lever I32 to releasethe stub shaft 16 to effect transfer and narrowing at the same time, I

The latch arm 261 is pivotally mounted, by a pin 213, in a bracket 218on the machine frame and has, at'its upper end, a latch portion 21.1 forholding and releasing a fork portion 218 of a lever 219. The forkportion 218 embraces a stationary vertical guide rod 282 whereby thefollower 288 may be moved by the face cam 53 back and forth in thedirection of the cam shaft 42 and the latch end, or fork portion, 218remains in the vicinity of the latch portion 211 of the arm 261 forlatching cooperation therewith. The lever 219 is pivotally connected bya vertical pin 283, to a forked end 284 of a swing arm 281 which carriesthe follower 268 on a pivot shaft 288, and also carries, on a pin 289, aroller follower 292 forengagement with a perimetral cam portion 293 ofthe face cam 53 for moving the swing arm 281 upwardly to disengage thefollower 268 from the face cam, and permit it to be latched in upperposition by the latch arm 261. The swing arm 281 is pivotally mountedfor up and down movement, by a horizontal pin 294, and biased downwardlyby a spring 291 extending between a hook portion 298 on the arm 281 anda portion The horizontal pin 294 is mounted near the pivot end of alever 299 that is pivotally mounted by a vertical pin 382 in a bracket383 on the back rail 31, so that the swing arm 281 thereby has bothvertical and horizontal movement.

The lever 299 has a bifurcate end 384 which embraces one end of avertical lever 381 that is pivotally mounted on the bracket 383, by ahorizontal pin 388, and has a lower end 389 between collars 3I2 on a rod314 whereby pivotal movement of the lever 381 imparts longitudinalmovement to the rod 3%.

The rod 3M also carries collars 3I1 (Figs. 4 and 13) between which oneend 3I8 of a lever 3I9 is disposed, whereby rectilinear movement of therod 3I4 causes pivotal movement of the lever 3I9 about its pivot pin322. The other end 323 of the lever 3i 9 is of flat-prong fork shapeclosely embracing the follower 18 for shifting it along its pin 19relative to the lever 88 and to the narrowing cam 81.

Thus, while effecting transfers, without narrowing, the pattern chainI34, by operationof the lever 258, operates only the lever I32 to shogthe cam shaft 42 to position in which the formation of new loops istemporarily prevented, the dipping movement of the front narrowing shaftI63 and associated parts is effected, and the shifting of the transfercombs I82 and I83 occurs, but the narrowing combs H2 and H3 do notshift, because the latch arm 261 and associate parts are not operated.However, to effect both transfer and narrowing action with the samedipping action, the pattern chain I34 operates the lever 263, as aboveset forth, or both levers 263 and In operation, for producing a fullfashioned stocking blank, as hereinbefore indicated,'nearly all of theblank, that is, all of it except the heel pocket set forth, and shown inFig. 1, is formed on a machine that is not a part of this invention,

except as a means for practicing a step'or steps of the method producingthe fabric. The course or courses [9 at each side of the blank-of Fig. 2

are severed, as shown in Fig. 16, the fabric be-.

tween the course J and the toe tip is folded about a coursewise line atabout the course J, and the coursewise folded portion is again folded ateach side abouta walewise line near the inner ends of the adjacentsevered portions, to the positions of the fabric parts of Fig. 17. Asthus folded, the course portions l1 and I8, which were in walewiseregister when first produced in the blank of Figs. 2 and 16, are now incoursewise alignment, or

in different coursewise positions from those originally occupied. Theabove-mentioned manipulation, including the coursewise and walewisefolding of the blank and its topping onto the needles and needle-likeimplements, is indicated in the example given, as performed by hand,although it may, by various degrees of completeness, be performed by theaid of tools and mechanisms. A portion of the blank above the instepcourse J (shown below it in the figures) when the courses I! and I8 aretopped onto the needles or loop-manipulating implements of the machineof the invention and the fabric tension applied, assumes a shapesomewhat similar to that of Fig.

17, with an edge 32! curved between parts corresponding to the outerends of the course J and the inner ends of the severing courses l9, asseen in Fig. 16.

As shown in Fig. 22, the loose loops of the course portions I1 aretopped onto the needles L of standard or long beard length, and theloose loops of the course portions 18 are topped onto the implementshaving beards of short length; the fabric being then in the generalshape and position indicated in Figs. 17 and 36, ready for e the furtheroperations of the invention.

In the next step of the method, or the first step by the machine afterthe fabric is mounted thereon, yarn is laid to each group of the longbeard needles, and interknittedthereby tothe course portion II, to forma course portion 328 (Fig. 39), but, since noyam is laid to theassociated short beard implement group, the loops of the course portionl8 will be moved out of coursewise alignment with the course portion l1,and into such alignment with the new course portion 328, as shown inFigs. 23 and 39, ready for pick up, by the points F thereabove, to com-.plete the first transfer, as indicated in Figs. 18 and 41.

During the above-mentioned action, the cyclic movement of the needlesand loop-manipulating implements, indicated by Figs, 28 to '35,inclusive, occurs. In Fig. 28, each long beard needle L has partiallydescended to place a new loop under the beard. At the same instant, eachshort beard needle-like loop-manipulating implement S is located, as inFig. 29, with no new loop on it.

In Fig. 30, the long beard needle has further descended to close itsbeard I95 by engagement of the beard with the presser edge II], and theclosed beard is just about to enter the old loop. In Fig. 31, althoughthe beard I94 of the short beard implement S may be partially closed, by

In Fig. 32, the long beard has been caught under, and held closed by,the old loop, as well as having been moved away from the presser edge II], and in Fig. 33, at the same instant, the short beard is fully open,well before it could enter the old loop. I

In Fig. 34, the long beard is further on its way down to cast off theold loop, while in Fig. 35, the open short beard is safely beyond itsold loop, and in no danger of casting it ofl,

To assist the above action, as illustrated by comparison with a standardneedle in Figs. 24, 25, 26 and 27, the short beard implement has a tipportion 324, which although tilted toward the implement shank is. tiltedless than a tip 325 of the long beard, anda tapered inner longitudinalsurface 330 which is 0.312 inch long and has 0.031 inch greater length,or downward extent toward the butt end 335 of the implement than thecorresponding usual 0.281 inch tapered of the short beard implement on acylindrical.

portion of the shank close to the point at which the beard tip isopposite the loop, the loop might not follow the taper fast enough toavoid passing outside the beard. By the longer taper therefore, the loophas a better opportunity to recede from the beard tip. The smaller tiltof the short beard tip also assists in preventing the tip from enteringthe loop; the tilt being provided to enable the beard to rise past thepresser edge and avoid point contact therewith. The implements S and Lare of the same length and shank diameter, and, in the examples given,which are of standard forty-five gage, the length is 1.713 inches, andthe diameter near the bottom of the straight part of the grooves G is0.022 inch. The beard lengthof the implement S is 0.185 inch, and thebeard length of the implement L is 0.281 inch; the depth of the grooveG, near the bottom of the straight part thereof, being 0.014 inch ineach case. In implements of this type of a well known standard make, asheretofore constructed, the diameters of the shanks vary from 0.017 inchin a sixty gage needle or implement, to 0.0263 inch in a thirty-six gageneedle or implement of the same relative beard and sloping surfacelengths. The overall lengths vary between the same gages from 1.7105inches to 1.7151 inches. The shortest beard ever heretofore provided ona standard needle, so far as I am aware, has been 0.232 inch, so thatthe short beard hereof, by its 0.185 inch length, is substantiallyshorter than the shortest previously known standard beard. The partialclosure As shown in Fig. 40, the points F have tie-- scended to cover,and partially close, the short beards I84, and are disposed in thecorresponding loops of the'course portion l8; the partial closure of thebeards, in this instance also, be-

8 2,295 rwi ,ing incident to the main purpose of taking ofi the loopsupon rise of the points F from the position of Fig. 40. After the loopshave been thus lifted, the action of the slide cam bar 293, abovedescribed, takes place whereby to shift the points and the loops aone-needle distance to a position above the position of 'the points ofFig. 41, from which they are lowered, or dipped, to the position of thatfigure for depositing the first loop 329 at one end of the courseportion l8 on the first needle 332 in the next adjacent group of longbeard needles.

Fig. 42 shows the needle-like implements elevated with respect to thepositions thereof of Fig. 41, and the points F lifted therefrom andshifted back a one-needle distance, ready for the next transfer.

The operation, after the above-described initial steps, may be variedconsiderably as to which courses of loops formed on the long beardneedle groups shall be narrowed, and to which the loops on the shortbeard implements shall, be transferred. However, in the example given,the next transfer operation takes place after the knitting of one or twocourses, and the ratio maintained ofapproximately two transfers in everythree courses to the end of the heel tabs.

The narrowings do not begin, in the example givenpuntil after about halfof each heel tab has been knitted, when the ten narrowings abovereferred to are inserted in the remaining fortyfive courses such thatthe first five narrowings are inserted one in every fifth course and thenext five narrowings are inserted one in every fourth course, orirrespective of the number of courses through which they aredistributed, are effected in a general arrangement like this, to the endof the heel tab.

Figs. 19 and 37 show the progress of the tabs E at an intermediate stageof production, Fig. 20 shows the completion of the tabs, and Figs. 21and 38 show the finish of operations, with the ravel areas 23 producedby ordinary knitting,

after all of the transfers and narrowings have.

been effected.

As illustrated in'Figs. 36, 37 and 38, the larger portion of thefolded-over toe end of the blank restson a leg portion, but partsadjacent to the transferring and knitting action are maintained under aslight tension, as by hooks 333, cords 338 extending under the blank anda small weight member 331 hanging on the front edge of the front bed 38,merely to maintain the folded portions in some kind of regular position,and'not allow them to move about irregularly, and to have enough tensionon the short beard implements to ensure regular transfer action and toprevent displacement of the loops.

Also, as shown in Figs. 36, 3'7 and 38; the upper part of the blank, orportion between the courses I! and the top edge of the welt portion, istensioned and wound on a draw oif reel 338 in a usual manner.

Fig. 43 indicates closely the loop formations and approximately rightangularly related wales of the heel tab and sole areas as formed andjoined by the selvage loop forming and connecting means above set forth.

Of course, the improvements specifically shown and described by which Iobtain the above results, can be changed and modified in various wayswithout departing from the invention herein disclosed and hereinafterclaimed.

l. A heeler machine having four. coplanar point carrying combs perneedle or knitting section and four rods, one for operating a given combfor each section, a pair of said rods arranged to operate combs formoving selvage loops inwardly and a pair of said rods arranged tooperate combs for moving interior fabric loops outwardly, a shaftpivotally mounted for carrying all said rods down and up, narrowing nutsfor moving said first pair of rods to carry a comb on one rod of suchpair toward a comb on the other rod of the pair, and means actuated bymovement of said shaft for moving said second pair of rods to carry acomb on one rod of such pair away from a comb on the other rod of thepair and to return the combs on such pair to their original positions.

2. A heeler machine having four coplanar point carrying combs per needleor knitting section and four rods, one for operating a given comb foreach section, a pair of said rods arranged to operate combs for movingselvage loops inwardly and a pair of said rods arranged to operate combsfor moving interior fabric loops outwardly, a shaft pivotally mountedfor carrying all of said rods down and up, narrowing nuts for movingsaid first pair of rods to carry a comb on one of the first pair of rodstoward a comb on the other rod of the pair, and means including a cambar and springs acting upon a down and up movement of said shaft formoving said second pair of rods to carry a comb on one of the secondpair of rods away from a comb on the other rod of the pair and to returnsaid second pair of rods and the combs thereon to their originalpositions.

3. In combination in a full fashioned knitting machine, a cam shaft, apattern device, a needle bar, groups of standard needles of the beardtype on the needle bar to receive a course of loops at each side of theblank to which heel tabs are to be knitted, groups of needle-likeimplements of the same bearded type having shorter beards also on saidbar to receive other courses of loose loops adjacent to said first loopcourses at each side of the blank, a presser edge, mechanism includingmeans for actuating the needle bar to engage the standard needle beardsto the presser edge to knit the heel tabs and preventing the forming ofloops on said implements and the closing of said short beards at thetime the needles cast off loops, a front narrowing shaft, brackets -onsaid front narrowing shaft, means for narrowing in the heel tabsincluding narrowing rods supported by said brackets and a follower forcooperating with a cam on the cam shaft, means for transferring loopsfrom said implements to the inside selvage edges of the heel tabs andcausing the transferred loops to be interknitted with the selvage edgeloops including transfer bar means supported by said brackets and aslide cam bar on the front narrowing shaft operated by the cam shafttransversely to the transfer, bar means to simultaneously imparttransfer movement to transfer bars in opposite directions, and meanswhereby the transferring means may be operated simultaneously with, andindependently of, the narrowing means including means controlled by thepattern device for .at one time shogging the cam shaft and shifting saidfollower and at another time shogging the cam shaft independently of thefollower.

GUSTAV GASTRICH.

